- at an even distance about 2-3 mm control strap at a maximum height, for lighter sailors during strong wind – the lowest possible position.If you know how to adjust the boom height do it in such a way that the luff is a little loose (when you run your finger along it it shouldn't be as tight as a string); don't try it if you are not able to adjust it. Foot trim
Even on the whole length to avoid a 'frill' span should be strung to the maximum possible and controlled at all times it is a good idea to move the mainsheet block forward to gain space needed for tacking and so that the plastic 'ear' (top fairlead) doesn't interfere with the neighbouring cord. It is also a good idea to tape the ear so that the sail can move from one side to the other easily. Boom vang should be trimmed in such a way that on upwind courses the mainsheet takes over and the sail is a little loose, but not to an extent of the boom bouncing on the waves on downwind courses and so that the free leech is slightly open while salining downwind; during strong winds boom vang should be highly strung/ tense.
Mast trim
Most sailors usually makes it 284 cm, sometimes the heavier sailors set it at 286, during strong winds come back to 279 while we were testing our sail one sailor (and the only one) set the mast at 297 for flat water, medium wind and a heavy sailor to a great result – and this is how we came up with the name 'Heretic'
Mainsheet work
Control the sail at all times and react to squalls using mainsheet; on the first gust of the wind you should loosen it up a little bit and when you are in control of the speed take the sail in; the clew should be above the corner of the boat.